Beauty Before Atrocity: A Memory of Tigray
A small town, Megab, in the Tigrayan countryside with the Gheralta mountains behind.
Writing by Michael Henry and Will Slotznick
Photos by Mallika Sobti and Will Slotznick
An ongoing yet underreported civil conflict is causing mass suffering in the Tigray region of northern Ethiopia. Since November 2020, fighting between the Tigray Defense Forces and the Ethiopian federal government has led to thousands of civilian deaths and millions of refugees. Forced famine has put two million citizens at severe risk of starvation, while military forces have systematically destroyed health and education facilities.[1] Human rights organizations report mass rape and other war crimes committed by all factions.[2] Truly, the scale of these atrocities is hard to imagine. The head of Ethiopia’s own Orthodox Church has warned of impending genocide.[3]
As we witness this violence, we seek to remember that Tigray is a uniquely magnificent place. Its rich history and human tradition face incredible risk and deserve everyone’s attention.
Just a year before the fighting, the regional capital of Mekelle bustled with cosmopolitan life. College students strolled in leather jackets, juice stands tempted passersby on every corner, and locals packed restaurants to enjoy traditional dance performances. If you had climbed a hill outside the city at sunset, you would have heard ethereal music rising from countless turquoise-painted churches dotting the arid landscape. This mix of sights and sounds, we thought, had a beauty that existed nowhere else.
In 2019, we—development workers based in various corners of Africa—were fortunate to meet in Ethiopia and experience this Tigray. After a few days among the aromatic coffee bars of Mekelle, we took a three-hour bus ride to the famous Gheralta mountain range. There, we scaled cliffs and squeezed through secret doorways to visit rock-hewn churches built by the earliest Ethiopian Christians. The incense-filled chambers of these churches ensconce elaborate murals and illuminated manuscripts half a millennium old. They stand as symbols of Tigrayan (and human) resilience—but today, remarkable spaces like these are under threat of destruction from the conflict.[4]
Tigray should not be defined by conflict. We hope our images from Gheralta share a glimpse of its wondrous past, draw attention to its tragic present, and inspire action to protect its future. We provide in the endnotes a list of organizations delivering humanitarian support in Ethiopia today.
About the Authors
Michael Henry is an international freelance writer with four years’ experience in sub-Saharan Africa, Central Asia, and India. He has written on development, tourism, conflict, and adventure travel for outlets such as the Nepali Times and Mountain Life Media.
Mallika Sobti is a project manager at the global development research and advisory firm IDinsight, based in New Delhi, India. She helps policy units use data and evidence to improve public health initiatives for millions of Indian citizens.
Will Slotznick is an MBA candidate at the Yale School of Management, following five years as a development practitioner based in sub-Saharan Africa and South Asia. His work focuses on rural welfare and sustainable natural resource use.
Organizations Working in Tigray
Save the Children
International Rescue Committee
Catholic Relief Services
FHI 360
Endnotes
1. Alex de Waal, “Ethiopia’s Tigray Crisis: Tragedy of the Man-Made Famine,” BBC News, June 11, 2021, https://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-57422168.
2. “Ethiopia: Survivors of TPLF Attack in Amhara Describe Gang Rape, Looting and Physical Assaults,” Amnesty International, November 9, 2021, https://www.amnesty.org/en/latest/news/2021/11/ethiopia-survivors-of-tplf-attack-in-amhara-describe-gang-rape-looting-and-physical-assaults/.
3. Alex de Waal, “Ethiopia Tigray Crisis: Warnings of Genocide and Famine,” BBC News, May 28, 2021, https://www.bbc.com/news/world-africa-57226551.
4. Tessa Solomon. “Centuries-Old Rock-Hewn Churches in Ethiopia Threatened by Warfare” ARTnews, August 6, 2021, https://www.artnews.com/art-news/news/rock-hewn-churches-ethiopia-tigray-conflict-1234601045/.